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Extension Master GardenerSM Volunteers of Buncombe County

weeds

Vegetables: The Carrot Family (Apiaceae)—Roots and Herbs

August 6, 2018

Did you know that carrots are related to celery, celery root (celeriac), fennel, parsnips, and lots of herbs used for their foliage and/or seeds, including angelica, anise, caraway, coriander, cumin, chervil, cilantro, dill, lovage, and parsley? We also call plants in the Apiaceae family umbellifers because of their umbel-shaped blooms, which are like umbrellas. You can grow most of these plants in your own garden—some you can start right now for fall harvest!

Heirloom carrots

Grow carrots in clay?
Yes, you can! Many WNC gardeners don’t bother with carrots (Daucus carota var. sativus) because they are so readily available in stores and they think they won’t do well in our clay soils. Home-grown carrots come in many shapes, sizes, and even colors, making them a tasty addition to your garden. Raised beds and container gardens are one way to avoid heavy soils, but choosing smaller varieties, such as ‘Thumbelina’ or ‘Paris Market’ or Nantes varieties, which are shorter and have blunt tips are better choices if your garden is “clayey.” 

Planting
You can still plant carrots, dill, parsley, and parsnips (Pastinaca sativa) now through mid-August for a fall crop. You can even leave your carrots and parsnips in the ground and harvest them as needed as long as temperatures stay above about 20F.

Although you can often find parsley and other herbs as transplants, plan to grow Apiaceae from seed. Plant directly in the ground in a sunny spot. Although best in full sun, many will tolerate partial shade if you’re short on space.

Annual, biennial, or perennial?
Although we grow most Apiaceae as annuals, many are biennials or even perennials. Annuals complete their life cycle in one season, while biennials form roots and leaves their first year, then flower and seed before dying in their second year. Perennials typically live for more than two years.

Knowing the lifespan of the plants you are growing is important because you may need to leave them in in the ground beyond one season to harvest your desired crop; also, if you are buying transplants, beware! One spring I got a great deal on large parsley plants, only to have them immediately start to go to seed, showing their biennial nature.

  • Anise, chervil, cilantro/coriander (yes, they are the same plant—the leaves are known as cilantro and the seeds are coriander), cumin, and dill are annuals.
  • Angelica, caraway, carrots, celery, celeriac, parsley, and parsnips are biennials.
  • Fennel and lovage are perennials.

Maintenance
Water. Keep your planting moist until seeds sprout. Water regularly throughout the growing season.

Thin/Weed. Knowing your crop seedlings from weeds is always important! Many Apiaceae have ferny foliage, which may help. Thinning is important for root crops, so leave at least an inch or two between carrots and parsnips. Weed often as pulling large weeds may damage your crop roots; cutting off weeds at the soil surface may help. Weeding after a rain and watering after weeding help avoid root damage.

Fertilize. Apiaceae are not heavy feeders, but you want to see healthy foliage to produce roots and provide leaves and seeds in your herb crops, so some fertilizing during the season may be helpful.

Insects and diseases to watch for. Armyworms, carrot worms, and leafhoppers may feed on your plants. Leafhoppers also spread aster yellows, which affect carrots and celery. Swallowtail butterfly larvae feed on dill, fennel, and parsley. 

Beware toxic and invasive Apiaceae

Giant hogweed_Jon Sullivan_CC BY-NC 2.0
Giant hogweed
Poison Hemlock_Dan Mullen_CC BY-NC-ND 2.0_Flickr
Poison hemlock
Queen Anne's Lace-Wild Carrot_RichardBH_CC BY 2.0_Flickr
Queen Anne’s lace

There are some very toxic members of the Apiaceae family! Be careful around the leaves of garden parsnips, which can cause an allergic rash in some—and never eat parsnip leaves or stems. You may have heard about the giant hogweed (Heracleum mantegazzianum), which can cause blistering and burning skin reactions—much worse than poison ivy—and even blindness. We recently identified poison hemlock (Conium maculatum) growing at our Extension office. This is another plant you don’t want in your landscape because eating any portion of the plant can be fatal! Even the wild carrot (Daucus carota) known as Queen Anne’s lace is considered a problematic invasive plant throughout the southeastern United States. Remove it before it goes to seed if you have it in your landscape, but be sure of your identification—use extreme caution when handling unknown Apiaceae plants.

Article written by Debbie Green, Extension Master GardenerSM Volunteer.

More information:
Garden Planting Calendar for Annual Vegetables, Fruits, and Herbs in North Carolina
by NCSU Cooperative Extension

Vegetable and Herb Seedling Photographs
by Travis Saling, The Westside Gardener

Invasive, Exotic Plants of the Southeast: Queen Anne’s Lace
by NC State University

Giant Hogweed? Maybe It’s Cow Parsnip, Poison Hemlock, or Purple Angelica
by University of Illinois Extension

Pest Alert: Giant Hogweed
by North Carolina Department of Agriculture and Consumer Services (NCDA & CS)

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Categories Vegetables & Fruits Tags carrots, giant hogweed, herbs, poison hemlock, Queen Anne's Lace, weeds

Is it a Weed? Depends on Who You Ask!

January 16, 2018

What is a weed? Merriam-Webster defines weed as “a plant that is not valued where it is growing and is usually of vigorous growth.” “Weed” is an epithet that humans apply, rather than a plant characteristic. All plants have their niche in the natural world.

Weed_Allan Hack_CC BY-NC 2.0_Flickr
Is it a weed? You decide.

Location
Driving through the Midwest, you’ll see a stalk of corn popping up in a field of soybeans. To the farmer growing soybeans, the corn is a weed. Down the road in another field, the corn is a valuable crop. Some plants considered weeds are edible—some people pull dandelions, while others plant them for edible greens. Today clover is considered a weed in lawns, but until the invention of broadleaf weed killer, clover seed was included in lawn seed mixes to improve nitrogen and provide nectar for bees.

Introduced plants and natives
A weed isn’t always an introduced plant. Our native poison ivy (Toxicodendron radicans) may be native, but few of us want it in our yards! And fewer want to give up the food plants that arrived with immigrants from other parts of the world.

 Competition
A major characteristic of “weediness” is a plant’s ability to out-compete more desirable plants for sunlight, water, and nutrients. Plants that will rapidly take over our space are undesirable—kudzu anyone?

Decisions
Deciding what is a weed to remove depends, in part, on your use of a particular space. In spaces devoted to vegetables and other crops, you want all the inputs (fertilizer, water) going to support what you planted. But you might rethink your attitude toward “weeds” in the rest of your landscape. Is this an area you are using as outdoor living space—or merely a buffer zone between you and your neighbors? Do you need perfectly manicured lawns and gardens? Is that plant invasive or merely a little messy looking? Is the use of herbicides worth the cost, both financial and environmental?

Is it a weed? Your answer depends—on factors such as garden location, purpose, maintenance requirement, personal tolerance, aesthetics, and environmental impact.

Article written by Joyce Weinberg, Extension Master GardenerSM Volunteer.

Learn more
Visit the Extension Gardener Handbook, What Are Weeds?
https://content.ces.ncsu.edu/extension-gardener-handbook/6-weeds#section_heading_7493

Editor’s note: Follow our blog this year as our writers highlight plants that may or may not be considered weeds. Each month, you’ll find a blog that describes different types of weeds and helps you identify and decide if it has a place in your garden.

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Categories Weeds Tags weeds

Time to Maintain: Stop Crabgrass Before It Starts

March 3, 2017

Act now to stop dreaded crabgrass from invading your lawn this spring and summer. Late February to late March—around the time Bradford pear trees start to bloom, but before the dogwoods—is the ideal time to apply a pre-emergent herbicide. It’s important to spread the pre-emergent and to create an herbicide barrier for the roots and shoots of those crabgrass seeds before they germinate. If germination has occurred, applying a pre-emergent is not effective as a weed killer.

crab grass_wintersoul1_CC BY-NC-ND 2.0
Digitaria sanguinalis or crabgrass weed

A summer annual weed
Crabgrasses are summer annual weeds that germinate as temperatures warm up in the spring, grow through the summer, then set seed and die in the fall. Once established, crabgrasses can quickly spread and devastate your lawn.

Using a pre-emergent herbicide
An application of a pre-emergent herbicide will last about 6 to 12 weeks, depending on the chemical used. Oryzalin and trifluralin are common pre-emergent ingredients. In addition to crabgrass, these herbicides will also control other summer annual weeds such as cocklebur, goose grass, and purslane. You can use most pre-emergents available to homeowners around ornamental plantings and in vegetable gardens, but always read the label! The label instructions will also tell you if you can use the pre-emergent on newly seeded or sod lawns, and how long to wait before mowing.

Using a post-emergent, selective herbicide
You didn’t get your pre-emergent down in time and crabgrass is invading your lawn? Consider using a post-emergent, selective herbicide such as 2,4-D (Weed-B-Gon, All-In-One, and other brands). Spray directly on the crabgrass weed, just to the point of runoff, rather than broadcasting. A rain-free day when your lawn has not been recently mowed is best. Again, be sure to read the label.

Mechanical control
For ongoing crabgrass management, I like to simply hand-pull. A weekly walk over my lawn with my handy weed-digger tool, and an eagle-eye to spot emerging leaves, keeps crabgrass and other lawn weeds in check—and I appreciate the exercise bonus!

Chemicals and manual labor aside, a thick, healthy lawn, that denies weed seed from coming in contact with the soil and getting adequate light for germination, is the best defense against crabgrass.

Article written by Beth Leonard, Extension Master Gardener Volunteer.

 Resources
http://www.turffiles.ncsu.edu/alerts/weeds/preemergent-herbicides-for-summer-annual-weed-control-in-turfgrass

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Categories Seasonal Chores Tags crabgrass, herbicides, pre-emergent, spring garden chores, weed prevention, weeds, winter garden chores

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