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weed prevention

Time to Maintain: Stop Crabgrass Before It Starts

March 3, 2017

Act now to stop dreaded crabgrass from invading your lawn this spring and summer. Late February to late March—around the time Bradford pear trees start to bloom, but before the dogwoods—is the ideal time to apply a pre-emergent herbicide. It’s important to spread the pre-emergent and to create an herbicide barrier for the roots and shoots of those crabgrass seeds before they germinate. If germination has occurred, applying a pre-emergent is not effective as a weed killer.

crab grass_wintersoul1_CC BY-NC-ND 2.0
Digitaria sanguinalis or crabgrass weed

A summer annual weed
Crabgrasses are summer annual weeds that germinate as temperatures warm up in the spring, grow through the summer, then set seed and die in the fall. Once established, crabgrasses can quickly spread and devastate your lawn.

Using a pre-emergent herbicide
An application of a pre-emergent herbicide will last about 6 to 12 weeks, depending on the chemical used. Oryzalin and trifluralin are common pre-emergent ingredients. In addition to crabgrass, these herbicides will also control other summer annual weeds such as cocklebur, goose grass, and purslane. You can use most pre-emergents available to homeowners around ornamental plantings and in vegetable gardens, but always read the label! The label instructions will also tell you if you can use the pre-emergent on newly seeded or sod lawns, and how long to wait before mowing.

Using a post-emergent, selective herbicide
You didn’t get your pre-emergent down in time and crabgrass is invading your lawn? Consider using a post-emergent, selective herbicide such as 2,4-D (Weed-B-Gon, All-In-One, and other brands). Spray directly on the crabgrass weed, just to the point of runoff, rather than broadcasting. A rain-free day when your lawn has not been recently mowed is best. Again, be sure to read the label.

Mechanical control
For ongoing crabgrass management, I like to simply hand-pull. A weekly walk over my lawn with my handy weed-digger tool, and an eagle-eye to spot emerging leaves, keeps crabgrass and other lawn weeds in check—and I appreciate the exercise bonus!

Chemicals and manual labor aside, a thick, healthy lawn, that denies weed seed from coming in contact with the soil and getting adequate light for germination, is the best defense against crabgrass.

Article written by Beth Leonard, Extension Master Gardener Volunteer.

 Resources
http://www.turffiles.ncsu.edu/alerts/weeds/preemergent-herbicides-for-summer-annual-weed-control-in-turfgrass

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Categories Seasonal Chores Tags crabgrass, herbicides, pre-emergent, spring garden chores, weed prevention, weeds, winter garden chores

Control Summer Weeds Now

February 12, 2016

From Dr Joe Neal, NCSU Weed Specialist –

Summer annual weeds, like crabgrass and spurge, are best controlled in the next few weeks.. For maximum effectiveness, mulches or preemergence herbicides need to be applied before weed seeds germinate.

Top dressjng landscapes with a fresh layer of mulch before spring is another alternative This will prevent most summer annual weeds from becoming a problem. A preemergence herbicide may also be applied before or after mulching.

imageRead the label before buying and again before applying any herbicide. You should know the the identity of the weed.

 

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Categories Weeds Tags herbicides, spring garden chores, summer weeds, weed prevention

To Mulch or Not to Mulch…That is the Question!

March 17, 2014

This is the sort of “between the seasons” period when we sometimes look around for things to do in the garden, just to be outdoors on nice days.  And checking the mulch in your shrub borders or flower beds is one of those things than might occur to you.

But why mulch in the first place?  Well, mulch can keep down weeds. It won’t prevent all their seeds from germinating, but it can make it easier to pull them. It can insulate the soil from temperature swings, both summer and winter, and help retain moisture so that plants have a constant supply.  An absorbent mulch can prevent splash that might pass a disease from the soil to the plants and control erosion from water and wind. And as it decomposes organic mulch feeds the plants and the worms, microbes and other organisms that benefit the plants.

straw mulch to discourage weeds and retain moisture
straw mulch to discourage weeds and retain moisture

And, it can add to the asthetics of the garden just by providing a unifying feature.

“Should mulch be replaced every year?” No! Replenished perhaps but not removed and replaced.

“Can I use cardboard or shredded newspaper?” Sure, they’re organic and will decompose.  But consider that voles can find shelter under the cardboard and shredded newsprint may blow around. And there is controversy as to whether office paper should be used at all because of the various chemicals involved in its production.  I’d avoid it as a mulch. Just ship that paper off in your blue bins.

“How deep should mulch be?” Three to four inches is enough, and of course that will be reduced as the mulch composts.

Say NO to mulch volcanos.
Say NO to mulch volcanos.

The exception here is around trees or shrubs. Mulch piled against the trunk can serve as an “umbrella” shedding water that the roots need or when it does retain moisture two things may happen: the new roots grow upward rather than down or horizontally and the added moisture can lead to fungal canker and trunk decay. You want to be able to see the curve where the roots go out from the main stem. Don’t create a “volcano”!

Article written by Glenn Palmer, Extension Master Gardener Volunteer.

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Categories Mulch Tags moisture retention, mulch, weed prevention

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