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sunscald

Abiotic Plant Disorders: You be the Detective!

July 16, 2019

We usually think of plant problems as due to pests or diseases: Biotic agents! These living organisms include insects, disease causing pathogens, nematodes, parasitic plants, and viruses. But abiotic—nonliving agents—can also injure our landscape plants. If you think about it, you’ve probably lost plants to many of these, which include environmental extremes in moisture and/or temperature; mechanical damage, such as severe root cutting; and chemical factors, such as high soil salinity or herbicide damage.
Accurate diagnosis is key to remedying any plant problem, biotic, abiotic, or both!

How to diagnosis?
• Identify the plants: Determine the botanical name: genus, species and family—plant labels usually have plant genus and species and with that information you can look up the plant family.
• Identify the symptoms: Chlorotic (yellowing), necrotic (blackening or death), or distorted plant parts. Be thorough and accurate!
• Inspect the whole plant: Examine all parts of the plant, not just the injured area.
• Look for patterns: Are symptoms uniform throughout the plant or scattered?
• Inspect the site: Is the soil well-drained, is there recent evidence of disturbance, how long has the plant been in the ground?
• Do you have any records of plant care—watering, fertilizing, pruning, spraying?
• Identify likely causes from the information collected— Keep in mind that there may be multiple causes!
• Collect samples and submit for testing to rule out disease or insect problems at the North Carolina Plant Disease and Insect Clinic.

Examples and symptoms of common environmental abiotic plant problems:

Water—Too much or too little—both can damage plants! Waterlogging kills roots if oxygen levels in the root zone are too low, but excess soil moisture is more commonly a factor in root disease. At the other extreme, insufficient moisture can result in scorch symptoms on foliage, stunting, leaf yellowing, leaf drop, early Fall color; and death of flowers and fruits.

Flooding
Drought Damage to Trees

 

 

 

 

 

 

Sunscald usually occurs in late winter or early spring when sunlight heats tree bark during the day. This causes the water in the ground to start to rise from the roots. With freezing nighttime temperatures, this water freezes within the bark tissue and an elongated canker can form that appears discolored and sunken. Cracking and peeling bark may follow. It may be the next spring or summer when new growth occurs before the damage shows. Tree with thin bark such as beech (Fagus), dogwood (Cornus), honey locust (Gleditsia triacanthos), linden (Tilia), mountain ash (Sorbus americana) and sugar maple (Acer saccharum), and newly planted trees are especially susceptible.

Frost Crack …. University of Michigan

Wind moving across leaves takes moisture from them, sometimes in excessive amounts resulting in a scorched appearance. Evergreen trees and shrubs are particularly susceptible to this during the winter when the roots cannot extract water from frozen soil.

Wind

Low temperature—Plants have critical temperature levels at or below which they may experience frost or freezing injury. Plant cells are injured when the temperature falls below a critical level for a species. Injury at above freezing temperatures is called chilling injury. Such injury may affect any plant parts of both evergreen and deciduous plants. Young leaves are most sensitive to lower temperatures; injured leaves look water soaked and black. Flowering plants putting on new growth are especially susceptible. It may be a few weeks before you see damage from cold temperatures. To minimize injury from low temperatures be sure to select plants that are hardy in your area—Zones 5b to 7a, depending where you live in Buncombe county.

Freezing Temperatures

Article by Bob Wardwell, Extension Master GardenerSM Volunteer

Abiotic Disorders of Plants  https://content.ces.ncsu.edu/extension-gardener-handbook/5-diseases-and-disorders#section_heading_7612

Sunscald of Woody Plants www.missouribotanicalgarden.org/gardens-gardening/your-garden/help-for-the-home-gardener/advice-tips-resources/pests-and-problems/environmental/sunscald/sunscald-of-woody-plants.aspx

Abiotic Disorders of Landscape Plants: A Diagnostic Guide, Costello, L., et al., University of California Press, February 2014.

How to submit a sample for Insect and disease identification: https://projects.ncsu.edu/cals/plantpath/extension/clinic/submit-sample.html

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Categories General Gardening Tags abiotic, Diagnosis, drought, freeze, sunscald, wind

What Can Go Wrong with Tomatoes?

June 4, 2018

What can go wrong with growing tomatoes? Almost everything! What can go right with planting tomatoes in our home gardens? Enough to keep us growing them!

Tomatoes ripening on the vine_Todd Heft_CC BY-NC 2.0_Flickr
Tomatoes ripening on the vine

What’s the problem?
Let’s face it—there are lots of challenges with homegrown tomatoes. They wilt, they spot, they crack, they dot, they blotch, they rot. Whew! The list goes on. Few vegetables—or fruits, which are what tomatoes are—are more challenging.

Helpful hints
Try following these guidelines:

  • Decide on varieties that are well-suited to our area, bred for disease resistance, and meet your eating preferences.
  • Select healthy bedding plants or start indoors from seeds 6 to 8 weeks before the expected last frost date.
  • Wait to plant until after all danger of frost has passed, usually after Mother’s Day for Buncombe County.
  • Choose a location that receives at least six hours of sun a day.
  • Plant in well-prepared soil, rich in humus, with a pH level of about 6.0 to 7.0 (find out with a soil test).
  • Maintain uniform moisture and mulch.
  • Avoid overhead watering which can promote disease.
  • Stake or cage your plants because of their vining tendencies.

What to watch for
Although there are myriad tomato problems, most are rare. Five of the most common concerns and their solutions:

  1. Bacterial spot produces small chocolate brown spots on leaves and fruit. Recommended controls are to use treated seed, apply fixed copper bactericide, avoid overhead watering, remove old plant debris, and rotate your planting area.
  2. Blossom end rot caused by calcium deficiency produces dark-brown leathery spots on the blossom end of fruit. Prevent by liming your soil (based on soil test results) and keeping your plants evenly moist—be sure to water plants during dry periods!
  3. Sunscald produces papery white areas on the side of fruit facing the sun or yellow-orange blotches at the stem end that do not ripen. Proper planting and maintenance help prevent foliage diseases that can cause leaf drop and expose fruits to too much sun.
  4. Cracks in fruit also result from an uneven moisture supply. Tomatoes may need to be watered every 2-3 days, especially in dry weather.
  5. Flea beetles produce many tiny holes in leaves. Tomatoes will tolerate a great deal of flea beetle damage, but if damage is excessive, ask about an approved pesticide.
Tomato blossom end rot_Cromely_CC BY-NC-ND 2.0_Flickr
Tomato blossom end rot
Sun scald on tomato_Scot Nelson_CC BY-2.0_Flickr
Sun scald on tomato
Flea beetle on fruiting vegetable leaf_NCSU Entomology
Tomato flea beetle

Preventing problems
To prevent disease in future years, do not compost plant debris. Plant tomatoes in a different location at least every third year. Then, watch your tomatoes grow! If you have a bad year, don’t give up! There’s always hope for the following season.

Consider the wisdom in John Denver’s song from his 1988 album Higher Ground:

Homegrown tomatoes, homegrown tomatoes
What would life be without homegrown tomatoes?
Only two things that money can’t buy
That’s true love and homegrown tomatoes! 

Article written by Mary Alice Ramsey, Extension Master GardenerSM Volunteer.

Learn more 

Gardening in the Mountains lecture:
All Things Tomato
by Dr. Randy Gardner, Professor Emeritus, Horticultural Science, NCSU
July 19, 2018, 10 a.m. to noon
Folk Arts Center, Asheville, NC
Watch for details in early July blog announcement. 

Growing Tomatoes in the Home Garden
by NC State Extension

Late Tomato Blight Is Here
by Debbie Green, Extension Master Gardener Volunteer, July 2015

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Categories Vegetables & Fruits Tags blossom end rot, flea beetle, sunscald, tomato problem, tomatoes

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