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pesticides

Check for Scale Insect Before Houseplants Come Back Inside

August 29, 2016

Soft Scale Insects on Plant Stem
Soft scale insects on plant stem

Scale is an insect which is common on houseplants. Scale rarely kills a plant, but the honey dew excrement makes a sticky mess which attracts ants and even mold. If you notice sticky spots or ants gathering on surfaces below a plant, chances are the plant has scale. Look on stems and the bottoms of leaves for small, waxy brown bumps which are easily scraped off with a fingernail.

Since scale are part of the natural outdoor environment, houseplants moved outdoors for the summer often become infested. Many gardeners just assume that any plant which was outdoors for the summer is infested and treat for scale before bringing it indoors. A safe, organic way to kill scale and discourage them from returning is to spray the plant with a horticultural oil, neem oil, or insecticidal soap. Spray two applications ten days apart, making sure to follow the directions on the label.

If you know a houseplant has scale, isolate it from your other houseplants until you know it is no longer infected. Since scale insects live in soil, it might help to replace the soil in the pot. Be sure to thoroughly clean the pot before repotting the plant. Scale can be difficult to get rid of, so, unless the plant is very special to you, it is often better to just replace it than to risk infesting your other plants. Ferns, when left outdoors, almost always become infested and are nearly impossible to rid of scale.

For more information about scale on houseplants, go to http://www.ces.ncsu.edu/depts/ent/notes/O&T/flowers/note32/note32.html

Article written by Diane Puckett, Extension Master Gardener Volunteer.

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Categories Houseplants Tags fall garden chores, insects, pesticides, pests, scale

Mosquito Control: Let’s Do Our Part

August 9, 2016

The press coverage of the campaign to arrest the spread of the Zika virus and other mosquito-borne diseases is a reminder of a responsibility that we homeowners and gardeners have to our communities: namely, the control of mosquitoes on our homesteads.

Find standing water and eliminate breeding sites
The mosquito species in our area go through their breeding cycle, egg to maturity, in less than two weeks. So control boils down to frequently eliminating any standing water. And that may call for using your imagination, too! Not just dumping or covering unused pots, but discovering where else on the premises water accumulates. Even a hollow tree or temporary puddle can serve as a breeding ground. Look for potential breeding sites around the homestead—places like discarded tires, plant pots, tarps, rain gutters, or low spots in the yard. Empty or flush them out every few days. Don’t overlook the ordinary tasks like changing the water in bird baths almost daily. Besides, the birds will appreciate the fresh water!

What about rain barrels?
Some standing water, such as in rain barrels, may be a necessary part of the landscape. A piece of window screening over a rain barrel inlet can keep mosquitoes from entering in the first place. Screens can clog though and there may be other gaps where mosquitoes can enter. If they do get in, or perhaps as a precautionary measure, an NCSU newsletter suggests the same shock treatment used to decontaminate wells: one-half fluid ounce of bleach per gallon of water to suppress them. The chlorine, about 200 ppm, will dissipate within 48 hours, after which the water should be safe for plants.

Using biological or chemical controls
Another option would be one of the biological larva control products containing Bacillus thuringiensis israelensis (Bti). Mosquito Dunks® or Mosquito Bits® are related to the bacterial pesticides commonly used in the garden against caterpillars. Read the label as you probably don’t need an entire wafer and one dose should least several weeks. The pesticide lies on top of the water, so to get full advantage of it don’t empty the barrel completely. Leave a couple of inches of water at the bottom. Do not use any chemical larvacide for this purpose unless the label states something like “will not affect plants, people, pets, or livestock.”

Incidentally, you’ll also see ads for mosquito traps that use radiant heat, sonic waves, or carbon dioxide. These can be moderately effective in luring mosquitoes, but they are expensive to buy and operate. Electric “bug zappers” are not effective as the majority of insects killed are actually beneficial in some form.

Article written by Glenn Palmer, Extension Master Gardener Volunteer.

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Categories Pest Management Tags mosquitoes, pest control, pesticides, rain barrels

Act Now to Protect Rhododendrons from Stem Borers

May 23, 2016

Look for signs of stem borers on rhododendrons, azaleas, mountain laurel, and blueberries
Adult borers—slender long-horned beetles—emerge from hibernation in the soil at the base of these shrubs, climb up stems, and lay eggs under the bark. On hatching, the young larvae bore into the stem and then turn downward, headed for the soil where they’ll spend the winter. Everything above the entry point on the stem will gradually wilt away.

In addition to rhododendrons, the stem borer, Oberea myops Haldeman, also attacks azaleas, mountain laurel, and blueberries. It is alternately called the rhododendron stem borer, azalea stem borer, or blueberry stem borer, depending on host plant affected.

Rhododendron stem cut away to chow tunnel of stem borer, Oberea myops Haldeman.
Rhododendron stem cut away to show tunnel of stem borer, Oberea myops Haldeman.

Symptoms
Symptoms to look for include a small hole in a stem and frass—fine sawdust-like pellets—on stems, leaves, or underneath the shrub. Look above where you see the frass and you’ll find the hole where the borer pushed these deposits out of the stem. Or, worst case, you’ll see a stem with drooping leaves. These are all signals that the borer is somewhere inside the stem below that hole. 

Solutions
From the hole, feel your way down the stem to the next joint, and with sharp pruners, cut off the section of the branch above that point. Make good, clean pruning cuts because in addition to searching for the insect, you are shaping the shrub.

Look at the cut stem. If there’s no hole in the center of the stem, you’ll know that the borer is still inside the stem above your cut. However, if there is a hole in the stem, the borer is deeper than your cut and you’ll need to repeat your pruning lower down. Dispose of the cut-off stem portions in a plant disposal or burn pile. 

Control and prevention
If you’ve had a history of borer problems on rhododendrons, azaleas, and mountain laurels, check your garden center for an insecticide labeled for borer control with a pyrethroid insecticide, such as permethrin or cyfluthrin. Apply after the new growth has hardened off about mid-May; apply again in early June. Be sure to read and follow the insecticide label for specific application instructions. For blueberries, pruning your plants every year in late winter is usually sufficient to control stem borers.

For more information, view the North Carolina State University Azalea Pest Management Calendar at http://www.ces.ncsu.edu/depts/ent/notes/O&T/calendars/note052.html and Pruning Blueberries at https://growingsmallfarms.ces.ncsu.edu/wp-content/uploads/2016/02/Pruning-Blueberrries-25JAN14.pdf?fwd=no. 

Article written by Glenn Palmer, Extension Master Gardener Volunteer.

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Categories Insect Pests, Shrubs Tags insects, native plants, pesticides, rhododendron, stem borers

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