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late blight

Vegetable Gardening: Time to Plant Potatoes?

March 11, 2020

St. Patrick’s Day is traditionally a reminder that it is time to plant potatoes (although anytime between March 15th and April 15th is fine in Western North Carolina). Another link between potatoes and the Irish, however, is the Irish Potato Famine of the 1840s—the late blight that caused that catastrophe is an important reason to think carefully about potato plantings. What are the pros and cons of growing your own?

Potato eyes

What potatoes want
Potatoes will grow well in the ground—and even in containers—in WNC if you give them:
• Fast-draining soil
• Full sun
• Slightly acid conditions (pH from 5.5 to 6.5)
• Keep them well-fertilized—don’t overdo nitrogen fertilizers or you’ll get more green foliage than tubers—10-10-10 or 10-20-20 are usually fine!
• Weed regularly.

Choosing varieties
Potatoes have a relatively long growing season—at least 70 days, and as long as 150 days from planting—and plants likely potential yield can be as low as less than one pound per plant! Even high yielding varieties produce only 3 to 4 pounds per plant, so consider how much time and space you are willing to devote to a crop that is readily available at local markets.

In NC, varieties recommended for home gardens include ‘Kennebec’ (high yield, main season), ‘Red Pontiac’ (high yield, late season), and ‘Yukon Gold’ (medium yield, early main season)—all of which store well.

Container planting

How to plant
Purchase seed potatoes, rather than potato seed—which will take much longer to produce potato tubers. Only certified seed potatoes are guaranteed to be free of disease, so do not risk introducing disease into your garden by using potatoes you purchase for eating! Seed potatoes may be whole potatoes or potato pieces that have “eyes”—indentations from which the plant foliage will grow. Your seed potatoes should NOT be shriveled or have sprouts before planting.

• Cut seed potatoes into pieces that weigh about 2 ounces—ideally with two or more eyes.
• Plant these pieces about 3 to 4 inches deep and about 12 inches apart.
• If you choose container planting:
o Use at least a five-gallon container with drainage holes.
o Plant 3 to 4 inches deep, but start with soil only 8 inches deep
o For larger, wider containers—such as bushel baskets—plant more than one piece about 8 inches apart from each other.
• Hill up earth around garden plants and add soil depth to container plantings once the stems grow 4 to 6 inches tall. Continue to hill up/add depth as the plants grow.

Colorado Potato Beetle Egg Mass
Colorado Potato Beetle Larvae

Concerns
Insect pests—aphids, Colorado potato beetles, and flea beetles—may damage your plants’ foliage and affect your harvest. Seek out and destroy Colorado potato beetle eggs and larvae to avoid total defoliation!

Diseases are a much greater risk for your crop—and the long-term health of your garden. Potatoes may suffer from fungal, bacterial, viral, and nematode-introduced diseases. Although planting certified seed potatoes and rotating the place you plant potatoes each year may help avoid most diseases, late blight (Phytophthora infestans) is a disease that is devastating to potatoes, and may impact tomatoes, too!

Late Blight on Potato

Potatoes late blight lifecycle
Late blight can survive year-round only on plant material, so late blight typically only begins affecting plants in our area once it moves north from frost-free areas in the south. Unfortunately, if you leave infected potato tubers in the ground, late blight may overwinter here and then infect your tomatoes earlier in their growing season. Although it may seem easy to remove all tubers from the ground, anyone who has grown potatoes will know that it is very easy to miss tiny tubers that will sprout again the next spring.

Bottom line: to avoid the risk of introducing late blight into your garden, think carefully about planting potatoes!

Article by Debbie Green, Buncombe County Extension Master Gardener Volunteer

For more information:

De Jong, H., J.B. Sieczka, and W. De Jong (2011). The Complete Book of Potatoes: What Every Grower and Gardener Needs to Know. Portland, OR: Timber Press.

Potato varieties grown in NC:https://ncpotatoes.org/varieties/

Potato late blight: https://content.ces.ncsu.edu/potato-late-blight

General advice about vegetable gardening: https://content.ces.ncsu.edu/extension-gardener-handbook/16-vegetable-gardening

 

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Categories Vegetables & Fruits Tags colorado potato beetle, container gardening, garden planning, late blight, potato plants, vegetable gardens

Blight-Resistant Tomatoes: WNC Leads the Way in Research

February 22, 2017

There are two words that elicit a deep sigh and considerable head-shaking from backyard and commercial vegetable gardeners: tomato blight. 

A costly and deadly pathogen
Of the tomato blights, the deadliest is late blight caused by Phytophthora infestans, which infects some members of the Solanaceae plant family, especially tomatoes and potatoes. Although this pathogen superficially resembles a fungus, it is an oomycete that is more closely related to brown algae. This is the culprit that produced the Irish potato famine in the 1840s, so to say it’s a problem is an understatement!

For the home gardener, late blight is the destroyer of a beloved summer treat—a freshly picked, vine-ripened tomato, bursting with flavor and warm from the sun. The pathogen overwinters in infected potato tubers. Its spores are carried by the wind, which means that it spreads easily. Once it starts, it is next to impossible to stop.

tomato-late-blight-foliar-lesions_Scot Nelson_CC BY-SA 2.0
Tomato late blight foliar lesions.
tomato-late-blight-fruits-1_Scot Nelson_CC BY-SA 2.0
Late blight damage to tomato fruit.
tomato-late-blight-stem-lesion-3_Scot Nelson_CC BY-SA 2.0
Tomato late blight stem lesion.

Conditions favorable to blight
Don’t be fooled by its name. Late blight isn’t limited to later in the growing season. It can develop anytime between early and mid-season, depending on weather conditions, and it is a threat wherever tomatoes are grown.

The very things that tomatoes need to grow create conditions favorable for Phytophthora infestans to take hold—plenty of moisture (rain, dew, irrigation, and fog) and temperatures between 64 and 71°F. Under the right conditions, the disease lifecycle can occur in as little as five days and can spread quickly any time humidity is over 80 percent for two days or more. There are many days when conditions are just right in WNC for tomato blight! It is for this reason that NC Cooperative Extension tracks and reports where the disease is appearing and how quickly it is spreading from farm to farm and county to county. You can also follow the disease each year through the USA Blight website (https://usablight.org/).

Prevention and control strategies
Phytophthora infestans is a formidable adversary for any gardener and requires multiple strategies to combat it. Prevention and control are particularly challenging for organic gardeners and farmers. Choosing the right location for tomatoes can help. Full sun, good air movement, reduced leaf wetness, and well-drained soil all help plants stave off the blight for as long as possible. Chemical products may slow down the spread of blight, but need to be applied frequently and on ALL plant surfaces with every application. It’s a lot of work.

WNC, a leader in tomato research and development
There is some good news on the horizon for tomato growers worldwide! Unlike infected potato tubers, tomato seeds do not transmit the blight pathogen. This makes it possible for researchers at Western North Carolina’s Mountain Horticultural Crops Research and Extension Center in Mills River, Henderson County, to develop tomato varieties resistant to Phytophthora infestans and many other tomato diseases.

Dr. Dilip Panthee, Associate Professor of Horticulture at North Carolina State University (NCSU), leads this research. Developing disease-resistant, higher-yielding plants for North Carolina’s $30-million-a-year tomato industry will reduce the global economic impact of diseases like Phytophthora infestans.

It was Panthee’s work on tomato breeding in his native Nepal that grabbed the attention of NCSU. “You’ll find tomatoes growing on every continent except Antarctica. We tend to associate them with Mediterranean food, but tomatoes are a favorite ingredient world-wide,” Panthee said in an April 2015 interview. “The varieties we are creating are important for two reasons. First, we are reducing the need for farmers to use pesticides, and we know that is good for the environment. Second, we are creating fruits with better food quality, both in flavor and appearance. That means greater availability of nutritious fresh tomatoes, particularly in developing countries.”

Disease-resistant tomato varieties
Working with NCSU professor emeritus Randy Gardner (the man behind ‘Mountain Pride’ and many more tomato varieties), Panthee developed ‘Mountain Merit,’ a high-yielding, fresh-market cultivar that is resistant to three tomato plant problems—late blight, tomato spotted wilt virus, and root-knot nematodes. Panthee also developed ‘Mountain Majesty,’ a large tomato with improved fruit color and resistance to tomato spotted wilt virus. Both are commercially available.

Panthee’s latest creation is ‘Mountain Rouge,’ a pink heirloom-type hybrid that is also resistant to early and late blight, as well as root-knot nematodes. “The flavor of this tomato is excellent,” Panthee says. “And its heirloom appearance makes it very appealing to commercial growers and backyard gardeners.”

Because the Mountain tomato series (‘Mountain Pride,’ ‘Mountain Rouge,’ ‘Mountain Merit,’ and ‘Mountain Majesty’) was developed here in Buncombe County, it is well-suited to local growing conditions. You’ll find one or more of the cultivars in the series throughout the planting season at area garden centers.

Learn more
To learn more about the important tomato breeding work being done at the Western North Carolina’s Mountain Horticultural Crops Research and Extension Center in Mills River, go to http://mountainhort.ncsu.edu/fletcher/programs/tomato/. Better yet, plan a visit in late summer 2017 for Tomato Field Day, talk to the experts, and taste the fruits of their labors.

Article written by Janet Moore, Extension Master Gardener Volunteer.

Resources
http://www.apsnet.org/edcenter/intropp/lessons/fungi/oomycetes/pages/lateblight.aspx

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Categories Vegetables & Fruits Tags blight, late blight, tomato blight, tomato disease, tomatoes

Late Tomato Blight

July 15, 2013

 The first symptoms of late blight on tomato leaves are irregularly shaped, water-soaked lesions.
The first symptoms of late blight on tomato leaves are irregularly shaped, water-soaked lesions.

Tomatoes should be reaching their prime, and if you have lush green plants with ripening fruit, enjoy your harvest.  If your plants aren’t looking so good, however, they may have one of the many tomato diseases that sometimes thwart even the most experienced vegetable gardeners. One of the most serious of these is late tomato blight, which typically affects plants later in the growing season, but has been confirmed on plants in West Asheville as of early July this year.  This disease can spread spores as far as 20 miles, so identifying the disease and destroying the affected plants may spare others’ tomatoes from developing the symptoms.

Rain and high humidity are both favorable conditions for the spread of late blight. Once your plants are infected, they can’t be cured; fungicides containing copper or chlorothalonil are currently the only treatments proven effective to prevent late blight. If you spray your plants, follow label directions.  Take care to cover all leaf surfaces;  use eye protection and other precautions to prevent contact with the spray.

The good news is there are less devastating diseases that are not late blight, so getting a positive diagnosis is important.  The first signs are irregular dark spots that look water-soaked on the newer leaves at the top of the plant, often with a lighter-colored “halo” around them.   As the spots enlarge, the leaves shrivel and die. You may also see white cottony growth on the underside of the leaves.  Both ripening and green fruits are also affected, with greasy looking spots that turn brown and leathery.

During humid conditions, white cottony growth of P. infestans may be visible on the underside of affected leaves.
During humid conditions, white cottony growth of P. infestans may be visible on the underside of affected leaves.

There are many images available online to help you determine if you have late blight; one of the most comprehensive series of photos is this one prepared by Dr. Meg McGrath of the Long Island Horticultural Research and Extension Center: http://www.longislandhort.cornell.edu/vegpath/photos/lateblight_tomato.htm#images.   If you are unsure about the diagnosis, you can bring photos and samples of your plants to the Master Gardener Clinic at the Buncombe County Extension Office.

If you do have late blight, bag up your plant as soon as you can, but do it on a sunny day to reduce further spread of the disease.  You can salvage already ripened fruit or green tomatoes that don’t show symptoms;  these are safe to eat.  Take care to look for affected plants other than tomatoes, especially potatoes and petunias.  Weeds in the nightshade family may also show symptoms and should be removed and bagged.

 Infected fruit are typically firm with spots that eventually become leathery and chocolate brown in color.
Infected fruit are typically firm with spots that eventually become leathery and chocolate brown in color.

If you lose your plants, there is always next year. There is ongoing research on less susceptible varieties and some evidence that ‘Defiant,’ ‘Mountain Merit,’ ‘Mountain Magic,’ and ‘Plum Regal’ tomato varieties are resistant to late blight.   Consider planting these varieties next season if you want to increase your chances of a blight-free crop.

 

 

See the North Carolina State University fact sheet for more details: http://www.ces.ncsu.edu/wp-content/uploads/2013/06/Tomato_late_blight_ki.pdf

Article written by Debbie Green, Extension Master Gardener Volunteer.

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Categories Plant Diseases, Vegetables & Fruits Tags blight, cottony film, dark spots, humidity, late blight, tomatoes, wet conditions

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