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herbicides

Backyard Bullies, Part II

October 15, 2015

 

rira-BJSo, on your homestead you’ve got kudzu, Oriental bittersweet, great big clumps of Miscanthus (Chinese silvergrass) and some bullies that you’ve not yet been able to identify but you know from the way they’re behaving that they’re indeed bullies, not something you want in your landscape. Fall is a great time of year to take or plan to take the first steps toward eliminating them.

You do have a variety of options and some work better than others for a particular bully so the first step is to identify them. If you need help you can always bring us a sample, a branch with several leaves and maybe the fruit. If you’re sure of the name give us a call and we can discuss which option should work best for you.

And here are your basic options to consider:

Break the reproductive cycle. This works best for annual or biennial plants, plants that go through their entire life cycle, from seed to flower to seed in one (annual), or two (biennial) growing seasons. One way is to prevent the seed from germinating in the first place. This is the approach many homeowners use for treating annual weeds in lawns. There are also natural and chemical pre-emergent treatments available. Or, in small areas you can make a practice of cutting off the flowers by hand before they go to seed. Bag those flowers for the landfill rather than putting them in your compost.

Another option is exhaustion, wearing the plant out by using up all of its energy and preventing it from growing at all by frequent mowing for example. Goats can do the same thing, and there are a number of local folks in the rent-a-goat business. Flame, torching the plant to the ground is another option but can be a fire hazard.DCP_0891-2

Physical removal of the plant by manually pulling or disking with a machine or tiller may be appropriate in some cases or with some species but not for others. It’s important to not leave any pieces of the root in the ground or you’ll likely have a reappearance.

Finally, we have the option of using a chemical herbicide. These are classified by their mode of action (MOA) or how they actually work. Some are contact, damaging tissues they actually touch, while others are systemic and kill from within after being absorbed into the plant through the roots or leaves.

Selective chemicals may work, for example, only against grasses but not broadleaf plants or vice versa. 2,4-D which kills broad leaf plants like dandelions in a lawn without harming the grass for example, is a selective systemic. Glyphosate, aka Roundup will kill any plant, including your lawn.

Now, after a full season of growth, is the absolute best time of year to get out and look for new bullies in your yard, garden or woods or along the road. Plants that are taking over, climbing on their neighbors, acting like genuine BULLIES.

Call us for help in identifying and in choosing your course and timing of your bully-busting campaign. 828-255-5522.

Written by Glenn Palmer

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Categories Invasive Plants Tags goats, herbicides, kudzu, oriental bittersweet

A word about pesticides…

June 16, 2015

…with some words about systemicsimage
The number of different pestiicides on a garden center’s shelves can be overwhelming so here’s a very basic guide to making a choice.

First, of course, is to answer the question: “Is the damage severe enough that you really need to use a pesticide.” Perfect really isn’t natural, and it comes at a cost. If “yes”, be very sure that you’ve identified the culprit, the type of insect or disease that is damaging your plants, so you know which shelves you should search. Insecticides don’t do much to cure a fungal or nutritional problem. And an herbicide would eliminate the problem by killing the plant. The large print on the label gives you this information.

imageNow, put your glasses on. Just like a contract, you’ll need to read the fine print. Find a product that lists your problem on the label. Then try to determine how the material will be applied. Do you need a sprayer? This information may be on a part of the instructions that is folded or wrapped so that you can’t get to it without breaking some type of seal. In that case, ask! You want to be able to apply it when you get home.

Unless you have used the product before buy the smallest amount possible. See if it works. You don’t want too much as it’s best not to store a pesticide for any length of time.
Ready to use (RTU) versus the concentrated mix-it-yourself: With RTU you’re paying for convenience in not having to do the measuring and mixing, and in many cases the sprayer is provided.

Pesticides are also classified by mode of action. Some must contact the bug or fungus directly. Others need to be ingested by the insect. Or be repulsive. Systemics though are absorbed by the plant and actually get into the circulatory system of the plant. Glyphosate (as in Roundup) is a systemic weed killer. You need to use special care with such formulations.

Another very important example: Imidacloprid is a systemic insecticide that has been quite successful in controlling the Hemlock Wooly Adelgid as well as many other insects that chew on leaves and stems ornamental plants. Unfortunately that includes those that use imagepollen from buds and flowers including, most importantly our friends, the bees and other insects who carry that pollen home and feed it in some form to their young ones. Our farms and gardens will be in sorry shape without the pollinators. In fact we’re already approaching the critical point with those populations.

The North Carolina Agricultural Chemical Manual in a table labeled Relative Toxicity of Pesticides to Honey Bees lists imidacloprid along with other systemics under the heading of Group 1 Highly Toxic, warning that “Severe bee losses may be expected if these pesticides are used when bees are present and foraging in the flowers, or the product is applied near beehives.” The same warning is in the label.

Bottom Line: Read the label before you buy and again before you apply. And follow it when using any pesticide!

Article written by Glenn Palmer, Extension Master Gardener Volunteer.

For more information:

Pesticide Environmental Stewardship Website
http://pesticidestewardship.org/Pages/default.aspx

Pesticide Use and Safety
http://content.ces.ncsu.edu/pesticide-use-and-safety-information.pdf

Disease & Insect Management in the Home Orchard
http://www.cals.ncsu.edu/plantpath/extension/clinic/fact_sheets/index.php?do=disease&id=7

 

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Categories Pesticides Tags bees, fungicide, herbicides, honeybees, imidacloprid, insecticides, systemic, toxicity

It’s time to attack Poison Ivy!

July 21, 2014

 

Poison Ivy

Along with many other weeds, Poison Ivy has really taken off this year, and many gardeners are faced with “Now what do we do?” The major point now is not to let any of it go to seed, and beyond that here’s a list of options:

Goats: Not practical in every situation but can be effective.

Weeding or hand pulling of the whole plant, including the roots: Effective but again not practical for many of us.

Flame: Works for many weeds but NOT FOR POISON IVY! Breathing the smoke is extremely hazardous!

Foliar spray of a chemical herbicide: From midsummer into fall, before the leaves turn color: Glyphosate, triclopyr, dicamba and 2-4,D are the most commonly available in garden centers. These are the active ingredients listed in small print on the front of the container. Read and follow the label directions. Add a sticker or surfactant if called for to help the chemical adhere to those shiny leaves.

Cut stump treatment: For major vines that are climbing trees, cut the vine and immediately treat the stump with a concentrated herbicide. Use a spray, brush, sponge or wick. The best time for this approach is late winter into summer when the plant is actively growing, not now. In many cases, and depending on how long the problem has been growing, the control project will be more than just a one-shot deal. For example, the NCSU bulletin on poison ivy suggests severing the vine that has grown up a tree as step one, followed by poisoning the stump and perhaps mowing the shrubby part to the ground so the live plants may be more easily treated with an herbicide.

Bottom line: The sooner a problem plant is recognized the easier it will be to handle.

Again: Don’t let any of these bullies go to seed. “One year seeding means eight years of weeding!”

Poison Ivy in Autum
Poison Ivy Stem on Tree Trunk

Article written by Glenn Palmer, Extension Master Gardener Volunteer.

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Categories Weeds Tags goats, herbicides, pest control, poison ivy

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