Extension Master GardenerSM Volunteers of Buncombe County

compost

What NOT to Do in the Garden

Frost has left your yard looking kind of dead. You hear the neighbors blowing leaves and see them busily tidying up—you feel guilty that you’re going out for a hike or sitting inside dreaming of next spring rather than doing yardwork. But you may be doing your landscape a favor by doing less!

Leaves that need to be raked, bagged or not ?

What to do with leaves?
Do you really need to rake up and dispose of leaves?
Leave them! In many cases, you can simply leave them where they fall: in wooded areas, under trees or shrubs, on your vegetable garden, flower beds—in fact, almost anywhere but a lawn, leaves can act as a mulch and eventual soil enrichment.
• Move them where needed. If the leaves are constantly blowing back onto your lawn, or are matting and smothering groundcovers or small plants, move them to other areas where they can break down in peace.
• Shred them with a shredder or lawn mower. Shredding will help leaves stay in place and break down more quickly. Using a mulching mower on your lawn before leaves get too deep will save you from raking there, too.
• The bottom line: If you must rake, save your leaves in a compost pile or in an unobtrusive area of your yard to spread back on your planting beds once they break down.

What about leaf blowers?
If you must move leaves around, consider that these concerns—Electric or gas blowers may:
• Harm beneficial insects, small animals and their habitats
• Damage plants and shrubs
• Create noise and air pollution.

What about pruning?
With the exception of diseased or damaged wood, leave pruning shrubs and trees until late winter—or immediately after bloom in the case of trees and shrubs that bloom on “old” wood.

Evening primrose_Oenothera biennis_seed pods_Andreas Rockstein_CC BY-SA 2.0_Flickr
Consider leaving seed heads for awhile.

What about annual and perennial plants?
Although you may be tempted to cut everything back in the interest of neatness, consider leaving dried seed heads for winter interest, self-sowing, and feeding the birds—at least until the seeds are gone or stems start to break down. One exception, of course, is if plants seed so aggressively that they become nuisances. Consider removing such plants and replacing them with more desirable alternatives.

Enjoy your break from yardwork!
Take time to reflect on what is working well in your garden and what needs rethinking. How does your yard look at this time of year? Does it have good “bones” that make it attractive in all four seasons, or do you need to consider adding some new plants that look good in fall or winter? Do you need to remove failing or overgrown trees or shrubs? Is there too much lawn? You still have time to plant this fall—until the ground is frozen—or start planning for next year!

Take time to evaluate your landscape.

Article by Debbie Green, Extension Master GardenerSM Volunteer

For more information about fall planting:

https://chatham.ces.ncsu.edu/2017/09/fall-is-the-best-time-to-plant-trees-and-shrubs/

 

Outdoor Composting: Make Black Gold for Your Garden

It’s that time of year when leaves are falling! We gardeners have choices: let the leaves remain where they’ve dropped; use them elsewhere in our landscapes; rake, bag and drag them to the curb to be added to the landfill; burn; or compost them.

Although the City of Asheville collects bagged leaves, in much of Buncombe County you must bring bags to the landfill and pay a fee. Our landfills are becoming increasingly full, made up of 20% to 30% food scraps and garden waste, according to the EPA. Burning is not permitted in the city. The county allows burning of yard waste only at designated days and times, and where there is no public trash pickup. Depending on your location, you may need a permit!

Pile of Leaves_Compost_Jeremy Noble_CC BY 2.0_Flickr
Leaves ready for compost heap

If you aren’t using leaves elsewhere in your yard, start a compost heap and make “black gold” for your garden!

Advantages of composting
Compost is the material that results from the decomposition of biodegradable materials. Composting is easy, doesn’t add to the landfill, enriches the soil while helping retain moisture, and reduces the need for chemical fertilizers. 

It’s all about the soil. Composting replenishes soil nutrients that help plants grow, slowly releasing major nutrients (nitrogen, phosphorous, potassium) for gradual use by plants. It loosens clay soil and helps sandy soil retain moisture. Use compost as a mulch at the base of plants, or dig it into the soil when planting. Compost is an ideal soil amendment for gardening uses.

Composting “do’s”
It can take from 3 months to a year to produce good workable compost, depending on the method used and how often it is turned. A composting area is ideally located in a semi-shady, level place which will be convenient to use, but is over 6 feet away from your house.

A compost pile is made of roughly equal proportions of “green” and “brown” materials with enough water to keep things damp and ready to decompose. Greens are nitrogen-rich ingredients such as vegetable and fruit scraps, coffee grounds, egg shells, and grass clippings. Browns are carbon-based materials, such as dead leaves, branches, and twigs. You can include newspaper, but make sure it does not exceed more than 10 percent of the total weight of the material in the compost heap.

Layer greens and browns in roughly equal proportions, moistening the pile as you go. The materials will compost more quickly if they are chopped into small pieces. Turning the layers periodically will speed the breakdown process.

Composting “don’ts”
Some materials just won’t work in an outside compost pile:

  • Animal products such as meat or bones, grease, or dairy products. These can attract rodents.
  • Dog feces or similar waste that may contain parasites.
  • Diseased plants or plant material that have been treated with pesticides or herbicides.
  • Glossy magazines often have toxic pigments and should not be used.
  • Orange peels and other citrus rinds, corn cobs, and nut shells which break down very slowly.
  • Any plants that contain intact seed heads.

Composting structures
If you don’t want a simple compost heap, you can use a variety of compost structures. One is a circular ring of closely woven metal fencing material about 4 to 5 feet in diameter with chain clips for fasteners. These can be unsnapped for ease in turning the pile.

A very user-friendly method is the three-bin structure, which uses a kind of assembly-line process. Place three bins next to each other in a row. Make each 3- to 5-foot square bin of sturdy fence wire, held in place with either metal or rot-resistant wood posts. Using removable slats in the front of each bin keeps the area tidy, while allowing easy access to turn the compost. Start the fresh material to be composted in the first bin. Turn it into the middle bin after a few days of “cooking,” and put a fresh batch in the first bin. Finally, move the middle material to the third bin until it is finished compost and ready to use.

Plastic drums which rotate are also available. While they make turning the compost easy, the drums can get heavy and hard to turn when full.

The finished product
Your compost is ready when it is dark brown, has a light and crumbly texture similar to potting soil, and has a pleasant earthy scent. It takes just a little effort to do so much good for your soil and for our environment!

Learn more
Extension Master Gardener Handbook: Composting
https://content.ces.ncsu.edu/extension-gardener-handbook/2-composting

Western North Carolina Regional Air Quality Agency: Open Burning Rules
https://www.buncombecounty.org/common/WncAir/burning/burning-pamphlet.pdf

Article written by Sally Wheeler, Extension Master GardenerSM Volunteer.

“Composting” Indoors? You Don’t Need Worms Anymore!

Do you have limited garden space, bear problems, or other reasons that make outdoor composting problematic? If you want to avoid throwing away food scraps, indoor “composting” is not limited to worm bins (vermicomposting) or expensive electric composting appliances.

Bokashi bucket with comfrey_Fluffymuppet_CC BY-NC-ND 2.0_Flickr
Bokashi indoor composting bucket

Enter Bokashi
Bokashi is based on Asian gardening practices and differs from traditional composting in many ways, in that it:

  • Is an anaerobic (“in the absence of air”) process that you can complete indoors.
  • Requires a closed container.
  • Requires the addition of microbes.
  • Requires minimal attention (draining of accumulated liquid).
  • Takes only about two weeks to complete once the container is filled.
  • Results in a fermented product that you bury in the garden rather than a finished compost.

Although the process has a long history, Japanese horticulture professor Teruo Higa developed several microbial products marketed as “Effective Microorganisms” (EM) that have made Bokashi more widely known and more readily available in North America.

How it works
If you purchase a container and microbe-treated bran, you need only start adding your kitchen waste—including meat and dairy products—to the container in batches, sprinkling with bran, and compressing the material each time you make an addition, then seal the container. Purchased containers include a spigot for draining off leachate every few days. You may see a white mold forming in the container when you add scraps, but this is normal. You just continue adding more scraps, sprinkling on your microbe-containing bran, and compressing the material.

Bokashi Composter_George Morris_CC BY-NC-ND 2.0_Flickr
Draining off leachate from Bokashi indoor composter

You may want more than one container if you want to continuously dispose of scraps, although you can freeze accumulating kitchen waste while your full container completes fermenting.

You can construct your own container and prepare your own bran products to save money, but this will require more effort and time. Although the process is beyond the scope of this blog, Bokashi Composting: Scraps to Soil in Weeks by Adam Footer, published by New Society Publishers in 2013, provides information on producing your own bran.

Once the sealed container is full, you need to leave it for no more than 2 weeks to finish fermenting. You will then have a product that looks much like what you put into the container—but with a sour pickled smell. This product will break down very quickly in the garden, but needs to be buried under several inches of soil to avoid attracting animals.

Pros
If you want a relatively compact, low-maintenance way to dispose of kitchen scraps, Bokashi is the way to go!

  • Disposing of dairy and meat scraps for use in the garden is a real advantage.
  • The bucket is odor-free except when you are making additions, and the smell of fermentation when you open the container or drain off leached liquids is not overpowering or unpleasant.
  • You can leave the container unattended for short vacations.
  • You can store completed materials until burial outdoors.

. . . and Cons

  • The up-front expense of containers and treated bran may be prohibitive, although certainly competitive with indoor composting set-ups (vermicomposting or electric appliances).
  • You need new or “fallow” space in your garden for burying the fermented waste.
  • You must dig a hole to use the finished product.
  • You will need to wash out the container for re-use.
Food for Good HK_IMG_2545_CC BY-NC 2.0_Flickr
Bury composted kitchen waste in the garden and improve the soil.

The verdict?
Research is ongoing about the value of Bokashi products in the garden. The leachate is sometimes touted as fertilizer. It is likely to contain phosphorus and potassium, but not nitrogen! You can simply discard this if you don’t want to try it on your plants. Research on the use of EM to produce compost suggests that in addition to speeding up the process, it can increase nutrients.

If conventional composting is not an option and you have space to bury your completed Bokashi fermentation, consider this method as an alternative to throwing away your kitchen scraps or waiting on buried scraps to decompose.

Article written by Debbie Green, Extension Master GardenerSM Volunteer.

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49 Mount Carmel Road
Asheville, NC 28806
Helpline 828-255-5522

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