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bulbs

Saturday Seminar: Bulbs for all Seasons, September 16

September 2, 2023

Saturday Seminar at The Learning Garden presents:
Bulbs for all Seasons

Saturday, September 16, 2023
10:00 am – 11:30 am

NC Cooperative Extension
Buncombe County Center
49 Mount Carmel Road
Asheville, NC 28806

Presenter: Deb Breck, Extension Master GardenerSM Volunteer

Flowering bulbs are among the most fascinating and carefree garden plants. There are a large number of different types of bulbs, offering countless variations in form, fragrance, and color that can light up your garden in every season.   Blooming begins before winter frost is out of the ground and continues well into the fall with minimal maintenance. Come and learn when and how to select, plant, and care for bulbs you can enjoy throughout the year, and for many years to come.

This event will take place indoors.

Registration:  The talk is free, but attendance is limited and registration is required. Please click on the link below to register. If you encounter problems registering or if you have questions, call 828-255-5522.

Register on Eventbrite

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Categories Lectures & Seminars Tags bulbs, daffodils, lily, tulips

Bulbs: Colorful, Showy Garden Additions

August 16, 2017

Planning to plant spring-flowering bulbs provides gardeners a welcome hint of another season with all its beauty and freshness when most of the garden is spent and tired-looking. From late August through October, garden centers start selling spring bulbs—crocus, daffodils, hyacinths, tulips, and more!

March 9 2010 021_SamanthaDurfee_CC BY-NC-ND 2.0_Flickr
Spring-flowering bulbs fill the garden.

Bulbs are often the easiest flowers to grow, and some choices will reward your initial investment for years with color, scent, and blossoms. Once properly planted, bulbs need minimal care. Some, such as daffodils (Narcissus), will naturalize and provide an expanding color display.

Two categories of bulbs
Plant spring-flowering bulbs, such as crocus, daffodils, hyacinths, and tulips, in the fall before the ground freezes. Most of these bulbs require a 12- to 16-week period of chilling to produce flowers and before breaking dormancy.  Planting dates for Zone 6 are no earlier than October; for Zone 7, it is November through early December.

Daffodils_KevinGessner_CC BY 2.0_Flickr
Daffodils
Hyacinths_Jessica_CC BY-NC-ND 2.0_Flickr
Hyacinths
Crocuses_color line_CC BY 2.0_Flickr
Crocus

Purchase summer/fall-flowering bulbs, such as caladiums, cannas, dahlias, gladioli, and lilies, in the spring and plant after danger of late frost, when the soil temperature is above 55-60ºF or they may rot before sprouting. Unlike spring-flowering bulbs, chilling or a prolonged cold period will damage or even kill them.

Dahlia_labbradolci_CC BY-NC 2.0_Flickr
Dahlia
Caladiums_DavidMartin_CC BY 2.0_Flickr
Caladium border
Gladiolus_Carl Lewis_CC BY 2.0_Flickr
Gladioli

Selecting and storing bulbs
Look for the largest bulbs available. Choose those that are firm and have no mold or obvious bruising. Store the bulbs until planting in a cool, dry area away from fruits—which produce ethylene gas that prevents blooming and may cause flower abnormalities.

Planting bulbs
Plant bulbs in a partial- to full-sun area. Because much of their growth is completed before deciduous trees and shrubs leaf out, bulbs can be planted underneath to lovely effect. Plant in sweeping groups instead of singly or in rows. If space is limited, you can plant bulbs in containers or window boxes.

As with any planting, proper soil preparation is important and good drainage is essential. Getting the soil right is probably the most important step to ensure gardening success. Bulbs do best in soil with a pH of 6 to 7. Fertilize and lime according to a soil test.

Tulips
Tulips

Plant bulbs with their root plate facing down and the nose of the bulb facing upward. Planting depth is important, too. As a general rule, plant bulbs at a depth of 3 times the bulb’s width. Tulips and narcissus will typically need to be planted 8-inches deep; smaller bulbs such as snowdrops and crocus about 3- to 4-inches deep.

Plant snowdrops immediately, but wait to plant daffodils until October or November. Keep other spring-flowering bulbs until the soil temperature at the planting depth is below 60ºF.

Cover the bulb with soil, then water to settle the soil and provide moisture to encourage rooting. Rain usually provides enough moisture for spring-flowering bulbs, but additional watering may prolong bloom during a hot or dry spring. Mulching with organic matter, such as pine bark or shredded leaves, helps maintain moisture and an even temperature, as well as enriching the soil.

Critter-resistant bulbs
Narcissus and allium are generally safe from the appetites of voles, squirrels, and deer, while tulips and hyacinths are tasty treats. Using planting cages or surrounding bulbs with wire mesh helps protect them. Rabbits enjoy feeding on tulip and lily foliage. A taste repellant can be useful.

What to do with foliage after flowering
After the colorful flush of spring blossoms is over and the flowers are spent, the foliage becomes unsightly as it dies back. Unattractive as it is, resist the urge to remove foliage until it has yellowed, withered, and comes up easily with a gentle tug. It is important to the health of the plant and its flowering. Through photosynthesis, the foliage manufactures nutrients that the bulb will store for the following year.

Strategies to divert attention from yellowing foliage include:

  • Interplant colorful blocks of annuals among the bulbs
  • Put bulbs behind other plants along the front edge of the border
  • Plant taller flowering bulbs behind lower-growing foreground shrubs
  • Plant bulbs among groundcovers or perennials, such as hostas and daylilies.

Care, maintenance, and repeat bloom
Daffodils reliably return year after year in Western North Carolina, with some varieties eagerly naturalizing. Crocus, grape hyacinth, lily-of-the-valley, and snowdrops also perform reliably. Many varieties of tulips and hyacinths are treated as annuals in the South as they decline after their first glorious year.

Snowdrops_Michael Hamann_CC BY 2.0_Flickr
Snowdrops
Grape Hyacinth_Dave Gunn_CC BY-NC 2.0_Flickr
Grape Hyacinths
Lily-of-the-Valley_tanakawho_CC BY-NC 2.0_Flickr
Lily of the Valley

Spring-flowering bulbs need little care after planting. After about 5 years, daffodils can decline, with a decrease in flower size and vigor, and uneven bloom and plant height. You can often prevent this by regularly fertilizing according to a soil test. If your planting becomes too shaded or there is too much competition from other plants, dig the bulbs and relocate them. Dig them after the foliage has died back, but before removing it—otherwise it is easy to forget exactly where they are planted!

Most summer-flowering bulbs need plenty of water while actively growing and well-drained soil. Some bulbs, such as gladioli, lilies, and calla lilies, can overwinter in the soil with a protective layer of mulch, depending on the severity of the winter. Others should be dug up and stored after their foliage has yellowed. Tall, blossom-heavy flowers, such as dahlias and gladioli, may need staking with wire rings or study supports. Drive the stakes in at planting time to avoid damaging the bulbs. Cutting the blooms for indoor use will prolong and encourage more flower growth.

Article written by Sally Wheeler, Extension Master GardenerSM Volunteer.

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Categories Bulbs Tags bulbs, daffodils, narcissus, tulips

Landscaping with Shade: Garden Beauty without Much Sun

April 26, 2017

When it came to gardens, my father showed no favorites. He tended his shade gardens with as much attention as he did his sun-filled gardens. Comparisons are odious, he liked to say! Why not see if there is a spot where you can tuck in a shade garden this summer? 

Before you plant
Determine how much shade your garden gets, and if it is moist or dry. Is the shade dappled or deep? Is the area shady all day, or only in the morning or the afternoon? Remember not all shade comes from trees! Roof lines and nearby structures also create shade. 

What to plant
Shade gardeners have plenty of choices, and they aren’t only green foliage. Plan a garden that incorporates native shade-loving plants with showy blooms to create a stunning garden from early spring through the first frost. 

Perennials—the exotics
Hostas (Hosta spp.) come in a wide variety of sizes, shapes, and colors. Because there are so many to choose from, they are perfect for shade gardens. Their flowers provide stalks of color beginning in mid-summer that are beautiful in floral arrangements. Beware that these plants are a favorite deer snack.

Heuchera and hostas fill woodland garden
Hostas in a variety of colors and sizes
Deep shade on garden slope.
Hostas and ferns line path on steep slope

Astilbe (Astilbe x arendsii)—sometimes called false goatbeard or false spirea—have fern-like foliage and elegant plume-like flowers that create fountains of color ranging from white to pinks and reds. Astilbes do best in loamy, moist soil.

Of hellebores (Helleborus spp.), David Colle wrote in Fine Gardening magazine: “You simply have to love a plant that braves what nature throws at it and can still show off from February through May.” Often referred to as the Lenten Rose, these evergreen perennials can tolerate dry shade and require little attention. They are a favorite of aphids, though, so be sure they are well-spaced with plenty of air circulation.

In September and October, the long-blooming freckled blossoms of the toad lily (Tricyrtis spp.) appear, providing a spot of color until frost. “Some, such as Tricyrtis formosana, have their blooms clustered at the top of the stalk, like daylilies. Others, such as Tricyrtis ‘Lightning Strike’, have their flowers marching down an arched stem,” according to the Chicago Botanical Garden. These plants like moist soil rich in organic matter. Toad lilies are another plant that deer love.

Astilbe_Jeff Hart_CC BY 2.0_Flickr
Astilbe (Astilbe x arendsii)
Hellebore_amdougherty_CC BY-NC-ND 2.0_Flickr
Hellebore (Helleborus spp.)
ToadLily_Tricyrtis formosa 'Gilt Edge'_Sarah's Yard_CC BY-NC-ND 2.0_Flickr
Toad lily (Tricyrtis spp.)

Perennials—the natives
Be sure to purchase these native plants from trusted nurseries that do not collect them from the wild!

Solomon’s seal (Polygonatum biflorum), named for the Old Testament’s wise King Solomon, is lovely from spring through the fall. In April, look for creamy, bell-like flowers hanging from arching stems (1 to 6 feet tall). In the fall, the plants sport blueish-black fruits that are favorites of birds. Solomon’s seal grows moderately in clumps.

Miniature blue (sometimes lavender or white) crested iris (Iris cristata) put on a show in the spring. They are deer resistant and can thrive in partial to full shade.

Masses of trillium (Trillium spp.) bloom in the forest understory along the Blue Ridge Parkway in the spring. Known as the trinity flower, because of its three leaves, the flowers range in color from white and yellow to pink and burgundy. 

Solomon's Seal_Jett Brooks_CC BY-ND 2.0_Flickr
Solomon’s seal (Polygonatum biflorum) with hosta
Crested Iris 'Eco Bluebird'_Drew Avery_CC BY 2.0_Flickr
Crested iris (Iris cristata)
Trillium Trio - UWGB Arboretum_Tim_CC BY-NC-ND 2.0_Flickr
Trillium

Ferns
They come in all sizes, shapes, and textures—from lush, tall Christmas and cinnamon ferns, to low-growing, gray-shaded Japanese ferns, and delicate maidenhair ferns. Many are native to our mountains, hardy and—in most cases—deer-resistant.

New York fern (Thelypteris noveboracensis) has fronds that grow up to two feet and makes a lovely addition to any woodland garden. It spreads easily in acidic, organic-rich soil.

Ostrich fern (Matteuccia struthiopteris)—named for its fronds that resemble feathers—is a hardy, deciduous fern that produces “fiddleheads.” It prefers heavy, moist soil and plenty of shade, although it can tolerate some light.

Fossil evidence puts the royal fern family (Osmunda regalis) in the Triassic period. They like wet, rich soil and plenty of shade. Their feathery fronds often resemble flowers, hence its other name—flowering fern.

Maidenhair spleenwort’s (Asplenium trichomanes) name doesn’t do it justice. This petite evergreen fern (just 4 to 7 inches) favors moist, but well-drained rock crevices, making it perfect for rock gardens.

Japanese painted ferns (Athyrium nipponicum) really do look as if an artist’s brush decorated them in subtle tones of maroon, green, and silver gray. They are an excellent choice in shade gardens when you want to add a touch of low-growing color. 

Ostrich Fern_Hornbeam Arts_Cc BY-NC 2.0_Flickr
Ostrich fern (Matteuccia struthiopteris)
Maidenhair Spleenwort, Asplenium trichomanes_J.Maughn_CC BY-NC 2.0_Flickr
Maindenhair spleenwort fern (Asplenium trichomanes)
JapanesePaintedFernShadeGarden_mwms1916_CC BY-NC-ND 2.0_Flickr
Japanese painted fern (Athyrium nipponicum)

Bulbs
Naturalized daffodils (Narcissus) make for beautiful spring sightings in a forest understory. You can create the same effect in your shade garden using a variety of bulbs from very small to big and bold. Unlike tulips, hyacinths, and crocus, deer and rodents typically don’t eat daffodil bulbs because they are poisonous. 

What hidden beauty does your shade possess? The possibilities are endless.

Article written by Janet Moore, Extension Master GardenerSM Volunteer.

For more information on each of these plants, go to
https://plants.ces.ncsu.edu and search by plant name.

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Categories Shade Gardens Tags astilbe, bulbs, crested iris, ferns, hellebores, hostas, shade, shade garden, Solomon's seal, toad lily, trillium

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