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beneficial insects

Kids Post: Butterflies in Your Garden

May 11, 2016

Butterfly_onAsterFlowerWe all love butterflies! They are like a puff of magic flitting around the garden.

Fun facts about butterflies:

  • Butterflies live from one week to many months, depending on the type.
  • Butterflies are cold-blooded and cannot fly if the temperature dips below 55 degrees.
  • It can take as little as two weeks to two or more years for a caterpillar to turn into a butterfly.
  • The Spanish word for butterfly is mariposa.
  • Butterflies taste with their feet.
  • Butterflies drink nectar from garden flowers, but they also love the sugar in rotting fruit or even Gatorade.

Help feed the butterflies in your garden.

Put out a plate with sliced oranges or strawberries or a splash of a sugary drink. Just be sure to use a very shallow dish to keep the butterflies safe from drowning.

Learn more about butterflies.

BrownButterfly_metamorphosisSpend time this year learning more about butterflies. Visit the Quilt Garden at The N.C. Arboretum (www.ncarboretum.org/) to look for butterflies. If you are in Durham, drop in at the Magic Wings Butterfly House at the Museum of Life and Science to see one of the largest butterfly houses on the East Coast (http://www.lifeandscience.org/magic-wings). Go to Friends of the WNC Nature Center website (http://www.wildwnc.org) to learn about plans to build a butterfly garden at the WNC Nature Center. Discover ways to encourage butterflies in your own backyard at http://content.ces.ncsu.edu/butterflies-in-your-backyard.

Written by Tish Szurek, Extension Master Gardener Volunteer.

(Resources used for facts about butterflies include the North American Butterfly Association at http://www.naba.org and the Lepidopterists’ Society at http://www.lepsoc.org/education.php which has an educational resources section for K-12 students.)

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Categories Gardening for Children Tags beneficial insects, butterflies, pollinator gardens, pollinators

We are ALL keepers of the bees.

March 28, 2016

 

Honeybee skepThe first settlers who brought honey bee hives in woven skeps to the colonies from Europe in the early 1600s could never have imagined today’s commercial beekeeping industry. Now more than a million hives crisscross the country on flatbed semis, providing essential pollination services so that the resulting produce (not unlike the bees) can be shipped to consumers from coast to coast.

Today, honey bees are considered “livestock”, and most are managed intensively by commercial, migratory beekeepers who work to keep up with the demand of equally intensive, industrial agriculture. The world’s largest pollination event is in California each February to March where more than 1,600,000 hives pollinate the state’s 800,000 + acres of almonds.

Nor would the settlers have predicted that bees, both managed honeybees and the 4000 species of native bees, would be unable to find enough food in a vast country filled with such rich and abundant flora.

While we cannot turn back the clock, we can help by taking important action. To repeat Dr. Marla Spivak’s urgent plea, grow more flowers, including vines, ground covers, perennials, annuals, shrubs and trees. Plant mostly natives since they thrive where they evolved, and support the pollinators with whom they co-evolved. Cultivate without pesticides.

I recommend you plant flowers everywhere you can imagine – containers on apartment decks, in landscapes where you work, live, worship, play, go to school, and shop. Plant flowers along roadsides and in empty lots.

If you cannot or do not want to plant flowers, here are some other things you can do:
• Understand where and how your food is produced. From the seeds that are planted in California’s Central Valley or in Peru or China to the produce at your grocery store, learn what happens along the way. Consider purchasing locally produced food that is grown with more sustainable practices. Better yet, grow at least some of your own food. Join or start a community garden.
• Support you local beekeeper and buy real, natural, local honey. Like vintage wine, local honey is a unique reflection of a specific place in time. Each of my honey harvests is a taste ‘picture’ of the flowers that bloomed during that season within just a mile or two of our farm. I even label it: “A Taste of Summer 2015”, or “Appalachian Spring 2014”. The French use a hard-to-translate word to describe this utterly unique characteristic, “terroir”.
• Reduce the size of your lawn. This bears repeating from an earlier post. Author of the groundbreaking, prophetic book, “Bringing Nature Home”, Doug Tallamy urges all of us, along with the landscaping industry, to upend the standard use of the lawn as the default element, with plants added to it. Instead, put a variety of elements into the yard (places to retreat, to sun, to have shade, to play, to picnic, to grow food and cut flowers) and let the lawn be the green carpeted walkway that leads us to these destinations and defines borders.

A pocket meadow supports life.
A pocket meadow supports life.

• Reduce or eliminate use of toxins, not just pesticides in the garden and landscape, but all toxins. Our soils and waters, and even our bodies and the bodies of many animals are becoming contaminated with poisons in so many of our household products. Two chemicals in the news and generating much controversy: glyphosate (active ingredient in Roundup) and the family of neonicitinoids. The U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA) plans to start testing certain foods for residues of glyphosate, the world’s most widely used weed killer (1.4 billion pounds/year) after the World Health Organization’s cancer experts in 2015 declared the chemical a probable human carcinogen. Neconicitinoids, often called “neonics” are systemics. The toxins are taken up by a plant through water in the soil and circulated through the vascular system, showing up not only on the foliage (the leaves those young monarch caterpillars eat) but also in pollen and nectar. Neonics, including imidicloprid, are active ingredients in many of the lawn and garden chemicals most home owners purchase, and are used by most large producers of bedding plants sold by many nurseries and garden centers. A recent, even-handed summary of scientific studies, published by The Xerces Society, looked at the impact of neonics on beneficial insects, especially bees. The full 44-page report as well as a 2-page summary are available for free at:
http://www.xerces.org/neonicotinoids-and-bees/
• Educate yourself and others. Ask questions, share the answers and encourage folks to continue learning and understanding the complex issues around pollination. Did you know that a swarm of honey bees is nothing to fear?

Relax: Swarming is how honey bee colonies reproduce. No swarming would mean no honey bees. Swarms of honey bees rarely sting since they have no home to protect, and because they are engorged with honey (they packed before they left their old home). Many swarms do not survive in the wild and beekeepers are eager to rescue them. Call your County Extension offices which generally have lists of area beekeepers wanting swarms.
Relax: Swarming is how honey bee colonies reproduce. No swarming would mean no honey bees. Swarms of honey bees rarely sting since they have no home to protect, and because they are engorged with honey (they packed before they left their old home). Many swarms do not survive in the wild and beekeepers are eager to rescue them.

In fact, this crowd of bees is an old queen with half her original colony in search of a new home. She left soon-to-be-born daughter queens and the other half of the colony’s population back in the original home. One colony becoming two. Swarming is how honey bees procreate, and is the goal of every healthy colony – to get big and strong enough in mid to late spring to be able to split into two colonies. Often the cast swarm doesn’t make it through the first winter. If you see a swarm, call the Extension office. They will give you a beekeeper contact who will come to the rescue. Beekeepers love swarms.
• Look for more ways to connect, or re-connect, to the natural world. We, all of us – plants, animals and those animals we call “people” – are in this together.

Written by Diane Almond, Extension Master Gardener Volunteer

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Categories Beneficial Insects Tags bees, beneficial insects, honeybees, pesticides, pollinator gardens, pollinators

Pollinator-Friendly Planting

March 21, 2016

Good news – the list of pollinator-friendly plants for WNC is a very long one. Many are sun-loving, but some thrive in partial and even full shade. By adhering to the overarching principle of ‘right plant, right place’ and to the basic principles described in the previous blog post you can count on thriving plants that attract plenty of pollinators all year long. Here are just a few suggestions.

Coneflowers (echinacea) are now available in so many different sizes, colors and shapes. Pollinators like these sweat bees favor those that are most similar to the original species. In particular, beware the double many-petaled bloomers which do not produce pollen or nectar.
Coneflowers (Echinacea) are now available in many different sizes, colors and shapes. Pollinators like these sweat bees favor those that are most similar to the original species. In particular, beware of the double many-petaled bloomers which do not produce pollen or nectar.

Fall is the most critical time of the year for bees, a time when nature offers little (beekeepers call it a ‘dearth’) yet pollinator needs are great. Bumble bees are raising queen, and the new queens, sole survivors of their nests, are looking for food and safe hibernation spots. Honeybees are often desperate for food to keep the colony alive during the winter. A large expanse of goldenrod (Solidago) and aster (Sympyotrichum) will be teeming with life from late summer until late October.

Goldenrod, Solidago rugosa 'Fireworks' Goldenrod does NOT cause hay fever or trigger allergic reaction. Wind-pollinated ragweed, no relation to goldenrod, is the culprit.
Goldenrod, Solidago rugosa ‘Fireworks’
Goldenrod does NOT cause hay fever or trigger allergic reaction. Wind-pollinated ragweed, no relation to goldenrod, is the culprit.

Add clumps of the lovely, native bunch grasses such as little bluestem (Schizachyrium scoparium) and prairie dropseed (Sporobolus heterolepsis). For wetter sites, ironweed (Vernonia) and Joe Pye weed (Eutrochium) are top bee and butterfly magnets. Late summer favorites include coneflower (Echinacea), sneezeweed (Helenium), anise hyssop (Agastache foeniculum) and all the mountain mints.

Several of the mountain mints (pycnanthemum) are native to the area and attract a large diverse number of pollinators in search of both pollen and nectar. Lovely in the pocket meadow, at the back of a cutting garden or in a patch by itself.
Several of the mountain mints (Pycnanthemum) are native to the area and attract a large diverse number of pollinators in search of both pollen and nectar. Lovely in the pocket meadow, at the back of a cutting garden or in a patch by itself.

While native plants are always the best option since they co-evolved with the native pollinators, some non-natives are very welcome in the landscape, particularly almost all the culinary and medicinal herbs. Lavender, rosemary, thyme and mint, garlic and onions, and sage (Salvia) are all well loved by pollinators and easily grown without either fertilizers or pesticides. Some, especially the thymes and mints, can do double duty as living ground covers.

Sneezeweed, helenium, a late summer pollinator favorite
Sneezeweed, a late summer pollinator favorite

Remember that almost three quarters of all bee species nest in the ground and need access to bare or barely covered soil. Three inches of mulch is impenetrable. A little-used native ground cover to consider is green and gold (Chrysogonum virginianum). It prefers a bit of shade and spreads easily, making a mat of deep green leaves with charming golden blooms for much of the year. Not native but worth considering are the bugleweeds (Ajuga) and pachysandra. One native species, Allegheny pachysandra, is a taller p. procumbens. Pachysandra likes shade, forms a low, dense maintenance-free ground cover with plenty of attractive, pollinator-friendly flowers and, unlike thick mulch, offers access for ground nesting and hibernating bees.

Abelia, here hosting a swallowtail, is not native to our mountains, but performs beautifully, often in bloom for six months or more. The dwarf varieties such as 'Rose Creek' maintain a neat, compact 2-3 foot wide shape which the bees especially bumble bees favor.
Abelia, here hosting a swallowtail, is not native to our mountains, but performs beautifully, often in bloom for six months or more. The dwarf varieties such as ‘Rose Creek’ maintain a neat, compact 2-3 foot wide shape which the bees, especially bumble bees, favor.

A mixed shrub border provides excellent pollinator habitat. Mixed shrub borders or wildflower borders along agricultural fields are helping to restore native bee populations, increase yields, and reduce dependence on commercially managed, migratory honeybee colonies.

Clethra, called summersweet or sweet pepperbush, is a wonderful, native alternative to the invasive butterfly bush. This Ruby Spice is a taller variety and there is no finer fragrance in my garden. Good dwarf varieties include 'Hummingbird' and '16 Candles'.
Clethra, called summersweet  or sweet pepperbush, is a wonderful, native alternative to the invasive butterfly bush. This ‘Ruby Spice’ is a taller variety, and there is no finer fragrance in my garden. Good dwarf varieties include ‘Hummingbird’ and ’16 Candles’.

Some of the shrubs that do best are blueberry, abelia, itea, clethra, hollies (deciduous and bushier ‘blues’), St. John’s wort (Hypericum), witch alder (Fothergilla), Carolina rose, beautyberry (Callicarpa), oakleaf hydrangea, and viburnum.

Bees the blue end of the spectrum to the red and cover the fall-blooming chaste trees (vitex agnus castus). To prevent this not-native from spreading seeds, cut it to the ground each year after the flowers dry up.
Bees the blue end of the spectrum to the red and cover the fall-blooming chaste trees (Vitex agnus castus). To prevent this non-native from spreading seeds, cut it to the ground each year after the flowers dry up.

Not enough room in your yard for all these wonderful plants? Reduce the size of your lawn. Seriously. Each year, our country’s 63,000 square miles of lawns (about the size of Texas) use 90 million pounds of fertilizer, 78 million pounds of pesticides, consume roughly half our drinking water and is a food desert as far as pollinators are concerned. Factor in the toxic exhaust (11 times more pollution per hour than the average auto) created by 3 billion hours of gas-powered lawn and garden equipment, and you can see how reducing lawn size by any amount is good not just for pollinators, but for all of us.

Sneezeweed, helenium, a late summer pollinator favorite
Sneezeweed, helenium, a late summer pollinator favorite

When it comes to pollinator-friendly plants, there is an overwhelming amount of information available. Some of the most valuable resources are:

http://www.xerces.org (best books plus free brochure, info, plant lists from The Xerces Society)

http://www.pollinator.org (excellent brochures, especially the free Planting Guide customized to your area)

http://growingsmallfarms.ces.ncsu.edu/(a wealth of info on the Pollinator Conservation page of this site by Chatham County Extension Agent, Debbie Roos)

Written by Extension Master Gardener Volunteer Diane Almond.

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Categories Pollinator Gardens Tags bees, beneficial insects, native plants, pollinators

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